How to Stop a Dog Pulling on the Leash

A walk shouldn’t feel like being towed by a sled. But for many owners, it does, and the usual reaction is to pull back, shout or give up and walk less.

Dogs pull because it works. It gets them where they want to go. The fix is to make walking beside you more rewarding than racing ahead, and to be consistent about it. This guide covers why dogs pull, a step-by-step training plan, what gear helps (and what to avoid), and how to handle common problems.

The short answer

• Pulling is normal dog behaviour, not defiance. Dogs walk faster than we do, and they’re curious.
• Dogs repeat what pays off. If pulling gets them forward, they’ll keep doing it.
• Teach, don’t correct. Reward your dog for staying near you, and stop moving when the leash goes tight.
• Be consistent. Every time your dog pulls and gets to go forward, it undoes some of the training.
• Go slowly. Loose-leash walking takes weeks of practice, and more in exciting places.

Why dogs pull

• Excitement. Smells, other dogs, squirrels and the sheer joy of being outside.
• Speed. A dog’s natural walking pace is faster than ours.
• It works. Pulling gets rewarded every time the walk moves forward.
• Lack of training. No one has taught what to do instead.
• Unmet needs. A dog with a lot of pent-up energy will find it harder to walk calmly.
• Fear or stress. Some dogs pull to get away from something, or toward safety.

What you need

• A comfortable, well-fitted collar or harness. More on this below.
• A standard leash of about 1.2 to 1.8 m (4 to 6 ft). Avoid retractable leashes while training, because they teach dogs that pulling extends the leash and make it hard to give clear feedback.
• Small, tasty treats, cut into pea-sized pieces. Soft treats that can be eaten quickly work best. Count them in your dog’s daily food, particularly for small dogs. Our guide to how much it costs to feed a dog shows how to work out portions.
• A treat pouch so rewards are easy to reach.
• Patience.

Gear: what helps and what to avoid

Flat collar or back-clip harness: fine for a dog that already walks nicely, but a back-clip harness can encourage some dogs to pull harder.

Front-clip harness: attaches at the chest, and when your dog pulls it turns them gently towards you. Many owners find it a useful training aid. Make sure it fits properly and doesn’t restrict the shoulders.

Head halter: goes over the muzzle and can reduce pulling, but it needs careful introduction, and a sudden pull can strain the neck. Many dogs dislike it at first. Ask a trainer or vet before using one.

Choke chains, prong (pinch) collars and electronic (shock) collars: we recommend against these. They work by causing discomfort or pain, and can cause physical injury, fear and aggression, and damage the bond with your dog. Many veterinary behaviour organisations advise against them, and there are effective reward-based alternatives. Never use any collar that causes pain.

Whichever you choose, make sure it fits well and is comfortable, and check your dog’s neck and chest for rubbing. If your dog has a medical issue such as a neck, back or breathing problem, or is a flat-faced breed, ask your vet which equipment is safest.

Step-by-step training plan

Start somewhere quiet, such as inside the house or your garden, and build up to busier places.

Step 1: Teach your dog that staying near you pays.
With treats in your hand or pouch, reward your dog every time they’re beside you, with the leash loose. Do this for a few steps, then reward again. Use a marker word such as “yes” the moment they’re in the right spot, then give the treat.

Step 2: Choose a side and keep rewards there.
Pick left or right and give treats at your leg, so your dog learns where the “good spot” is. Don’t hold the treat out in front, which pulls your dog forward.

Step 3: Stop when the leash goes tight.
The moment you feel tension, stop moving and stand still. Don’t yank or pull back. Wait for your dog to turn back, or take a step back toward you so the leash goes loose. Then mark (“yes”), reward and continue. Your dog learns that a tight leash stops the walk, and a loose leash makes it go.

Step 4: Change direction.
If your dog keeps pulling ahead, turn and walk the other way calmly. Mark and reward when they catch up and the leash is loose. This keeps your dog paying attention to where you are going.

Step 5: Reward frequently at first.
In the beginning, reward every few steps, even every step. As your dog improves, gradually increase the distance between rewards. Don’t rush, because dogs need many repetitions.

Step 6: Add distractions gradually.
Once your dog walks nicely in quiet places, practise in the front yard, then a quiet street, then busier areas. Expect to go back a step each time the difficulty increases.

Step 7: Let your dog sniff.
Walks are a dog’s main chance to explore. Give your dog a release cue such as “go sniff” so they know when they can pull towards a smell, and keep the training part of the walk separate. This reduces frustration and gives your dog a reward for loose-leash walking.

Keep it consistent

The biggest reason loose-leash training fails is inconsistency. If your dog is allowed to pull on some walks, such as when you’re in a hurry, they’ll keep trying.

• Everyone who walks the dog should follow the same rules.
• If you can’t train on a particular walk, use a different approach, such as a front-clip harness for management, a “sniffari” where the dog is allowed to explore on a long line in a safe space, or a play session at home.
• Keep sessions short and positive. Five to ten minutes of focused practice is better than a long, frustrating walk.

Make walks more rewarding

• Exercise your dog before training if they’re bursting with energy. A game of fetch or a short run in a secure area can help.
• Give mental exercise. Sniffing, puzzle toys and training games tire a dog out and help them settle.
• Walk at different times, and in different places.
• Vary the walk. Not every walk needs to cover distance. A slow sniffing walk is satisfying for dogs.

Common problems

My dog pulls the moment we leave the house.
Practise at the door. Ask for a sit or wait, and only open the door when your dog is calm. Start walking only when the leash is loose, and reward in the first few steps.

My dog lunges at other dogs, people or cars.
This is a different problem from ordinary pulling, and often involves fear or over-excitement. Increase the distance from the trigger, reward calm behaviour, and ask a qualified trainer or behaviourist for help. Don’t punish, because that can make the reaction worse.

My dog stops and refuses to walk.
Some dogs are fearful or tired, or have pain. Don’t drag your dog. Check the equipment fit, and ask your vet if it happens often.

My puppy chews the leash.
Keep treats handy to redirect, and consider a leash with a chain section for a short time. Make sure the puppy isn’t being left to chew on it as a game.

My small dog doesn’t seem to pull much, but the leash is always tight.
Small dogs can pull too, and tight leashes can put pressure on the neck, so use a harness and the same training steps.

My dog is big and strong, and I can’t hold them.
Use a front-clip harness for safety, train in short sessions, and consider a qualified trainer. Make sure you can keep control in public.

When to ask for help

• Your dog is aggressive or highly reactive on walks
• You’ve been consistent for several weeks with no progress
• Your dog seems to be in pain, coughs or gags when pulling, or has trouble breathing
• You’re struggling to control a large dog

A certified positive-reinforcement trainer or a veterinary behaviourist can assess your dog and help. Ask your vet about pain, and check that any equipment suits your dog’s body. Puppies also need vaccinations before they go to public areas, so ask your vet when it’s safe.

Mistakes to avoid

• Yanking, jerking or pulling back. It can hurt, and many dogs pull harder against pressure.
• Using punishment-based tools.
• Only training on walks, and not practising in easier places first.
• Giving up when progress is slow.
• Letting the dog pull sometimes.
• Expecting a young dog to be calm. Adolescent dogs have lots of energy and take more patience.
• Ignoring physical and mental exercise.

How long does it take?

It varies a lot. Some dogs improve within a couple of weeks of consistent practice, while others take months, especially adolescent dogs and those with a long habit of pulling. Progress isn’t a straight line, and a new, exciting environment will often set you back. Celebrate small improvements.

Final thoughts

Teaching a dog to walk on a loose leash takes time, but it makes every walk more enjoyable for both of you. Reward your dog for staying close, stop when the leash tightens, choose comfortable gear, and be consistent. If you hit problems you can’t solve, ask a qualified trainer. For more on feeding and treats, see how our reviews work.

Frequently asked questions

Related reading: How to Stop Your Dog Lunging at Other Dogs on Leash

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