How to Groom a Long-Haired Cat: A Beginner’s Guide

A long-haired cat is beautiful, and it also means hair on the sofa, knots behind the ears, and a coat that can go from fluffy to matted in a matter of days. Cats groom themselves, but a long coat is more than most can manage alone, particularly in older, heavier or less flexible cats.

The good news is that regular grooming takes only a few minutes, and most cats come to enjoy it if you start gently. This guide covers the tools, a step-by-step routine, how to handle mats safely, and when to leave it to a groomer or vet.

The short answer

• Brush regularly. Many long-haired cats need brushing most days, and at least a few times a week.
• Be gentle, and keep sessions short and rewarding.
• Check for mats early, especially behind the ears, under the legs, on the belly and around the tail.
• Never cut a mat out with scissors. Cat skin is thin and easy to cut.
• Most cats don’t need regular baths.
• Changes in coat or skin can signal a health problem, so mention them to your vet.

Why grooming matters

• Prevents mats, which pull on the skin, trap moisture and can cause pain, sores and infection
• Reduces loose hair, so less ends up on furniture, and less is swallowed by your cat
• Cuts down hairballs. Our guide to food for indoor cats covers hairballs and diet
• Spreads natural oils and keeps the coat healthy
• Lets you check your cat for lumps, skin problems, parasites, weight changes and sore spots
• Builds trust and makes handling at the vet easier

Which cats need the most help?

All long-haired breeds benefit, including Persians, Maine Coons, Ragdolls, Birmans and Norwegian Forest Cats. Coat type varies. Persians tend to have dense, easily matted coats, while some breeds have silkier coats that tangle less. Some cats need extra help because they groom less effectively:

• Seniors and cats with arthritis, who find it hard to reach their back and hindquarters
• Overweight cats, who can’t reach the rear end. See our guide on how much to feed your cat
• Flat-faced breeds, which can struggle to groom their faces
• Cats with dental or health problems, who may groom less

If your cat suddenly stops grooming and the coat turns greasy or matted, that’s a reason to see your vet, since it can be a sign of pain or illness.

What you need

• A wide-toothed metal comb, for working through the coat and finding tangles
• A slicker brush or pin brush, for removing loose hair. Choose one with soft, rounded tips.
• A soft bristle brush or grooming glove, for sensitive areas and cats that dislike brushes
• A mat splitter or dematting comb, used carefully, for small tangles (optional)
• Blunt-tipped scissors, only for trimming loose hair around the rear end, never for cutting mats
• Cat nail clippers
• Treats, small and tasty
• Cotton pads or soft cloths and pet-safe wipes
• A towel, for wiping or holding your cat if needed

Don’t use human clippers or dog clippers on mats, and avoid any product with strong scents or essential oils on your cat. Some are harmful to cats. Our guide to foods toxic to cats explains why some common household products matter.

Step 1: Get your cat used to being handled

If your cat isn’t used to grooming, start slowly:

1. Pick a calm time, such as after a meal or play session, when your cat is relaxed.
2. Let your cat sniff the brush, then reward.
3. Stroke your cat with the brush for a few seconds, using light pressure, then reward.
4. Stop while your cat is still comfortable. A very short, happy session is better than a long, stressful one.
5. Build up gradually, over days to weeks.

Count treats toward your cat’s daily food. Our portions guide shows how.

Step 2: Brush properly

Brush in a calm, quiet place, with your cat on your lap, on a table with a non-slip surface, or on the floor.

1. Start with the comb on easy areas, such as the back and shoulders. Go with the lie of the fur, using gentle strokes.
2. Work in sections. Lift the top layer, and brush the coat underneath too, down to the skin. Brushing only the surface lets mats form below.
3. Brush the sensitive areas gently: the belly, armpits, inner thighs, behind the ears and the tail. These are the most matting-prone and the most sensitive. Many cats dislike belly brushing, so go slowly, or skip it and check for mats by touch.
4. Check the comb goes through smoothly. If it snags, work on the knot with your fingers or a dematting tool, from the tips toward the skin, using short strokes.
5. Finish with a brush over the whole coat, then reward.

How often? Daily is ideal for dense or easily matted coats. Several times a week works for many cats. During seasonal shedding, in spring and autumn, brush more often.

Dealing with mats

Mats are tight tangles of fur that pull on the skin. Small ones can sometimes be worked out. Larger ones need care.

Small mats:

• Hold the mat at the base, close to the skin, so brushing doesn’t pull on the skin.
• Gently tease it apart with your fingers or a comb, working from the edges.
• A little cornstarch can help loosen a tangle, but check with your vet about what is safe for your cat, since cats lick their fur.
• Stop if your cat becomes distressed.

Do not cut mats out with scissors. Cat skin is thin and loose, and it is very easy to cut the skin when the mat is close to the body, even if you think you can see it. Many vets see accidental scissor injuries every year.

Large, tight or widespread mats need professional help. Ask a groomer or vet, who may use clippers and, in some cases, sedation. Mats close to the skin, mats that cover large areas, and mats on a cat that’s in pain or stressed are best left to a professional.

A “lion cut” (a close clip of the body) is sometimes used for severely matted cats or cats that can’t be groomed. It should be done by a professional, since cats are easily injured and stressed. Shaving isn’t a way to avoid regular grooming, and it can change the coat’s texture.

Tidying the back end

Long fur around the rear can collect litter or stool. Regular checking helps:

• Check under the tail whenever you groom.
• Use pet-safe wipes or a damp cloth to clean gently.
• Ask a groomer or vet to do a “sanitary trim” if the hair is long and keeps getting soiled. If you do it yourself, use blunt-tipped scissors, keep the blades pointed away from the skin, and have someone hold the cat.
• Frequent mess or diarrhoea is a reason to talk to your vet.

Eyes, ears and teeth

Eyes. Some cats, particularly flat-faced breeds, have tear staining. Wipe gently with a damp cotton pad, using a fresh pad for each eye. Persistent redness, discharge or squinting needs a vet.

Ears. Look inside occasionally. A little light wax is normal. Redness, a bad smell, dark debris or head shaking suggest a problem and need a vet. Don’t push anything into the ear canal.

Teeth. Dental disease is common in cats. Brushing with cat toothpaste is the most effective home care, and the steps are similar to our guide on how to brush a dog’s teeth. Never use human toothpaste. Signs of dental trouble include bad breath, drooling, red gums and dropping food, so see your vet if you notice them.

Nails

Trimming nails every few weeks reduces scratching damage and snagging. The basic technique is similar to the one in our guide on how to trim your dog’s nails, though cat nails are thinner and retract.

1. Gently press the toe pad to extend the claw.
2. Look for the pink quick inside the nail. Cut only the sharp, clear tip, well before the pink.
3. Use cat clippers, and take small snips.
4. Reward after each paw, and stop if your cat is stressed.

Providing good scratching posts also helps. See our guide on how to stop a cat scratching furniture. Never declaw a cat.

Do you need to bathe a cat?

Usually not. Cats keep themselves clean, and most healthy cats never need a regular bath. Baths can stress cats, and over-bathing dries out the skin.

A bath can be useful if:

• Your cat has got into something sticky, dirty or harmful
• A vet recommends a medicated bath for a skin condition
• Your cat can’t groom because of age, weight or illness, and a vet or groomer suggests it
• Your cat has a flea problem. Ask your vet for safe treatment first, since many flea products for dogs are dangerous for cats

If you do need to bathe your cat, use a shampoo made for cats, lukewarm water, a non-slip mat, and a quiet, warm room. Keep water out of the ears and eyes, rinse thoroughly, and dry gently with a towel. Only use a dryer if your cat tolerates it, on a cool or low setting. Ask a groomer or vet to help if your cat is frightened or hard to handle.

Don’t leave your cat to air-dry in a cold room. If something toxic has got on the coat, contact a vet or poison helpline straight away, since cats can swallow it while grooming.

Wipes and dry shampoo

Pet-safe wipes can handle small messes. Check ingredients, because cats lick their fur and ingest whatever is on it. Avoid products with essential oils, strong fragrance, or ingredients not labelled as safe for cats. When in doubt, ask your vet.

Shedding and diet

Shedding is normal, and heavier in spring and autumn, and indoors with artificial light and heating. A healthy, complete and balanced diet supports skin and coat health, but food won’t stop shedding and can’t fix a poor coat caused by a health problem. Our guide to reading a pet food label explains what to look for, and you can see how options compare on our pages for dry food and fresh food. Don’t add supplements or switch food to fix a coat problem without asking your vet.

Hydration can also play a part. For more on this, see our comparison of wet vs dry cat food.

Hairballs

Occasional hairballs are normal in long-haired cats. Regular brushing reduces the amount of hair swallowed. Contact your vet if your cat:

• Retches repeatedly without producing anything
• Vomits often
• Stops eating, is lethargic, or has a swollen or painful belly
• Is constipated or straining

These can be signs of a blockage or another illness, and not just hairballs.

When to see a vet

Contact your vet if you notice:

• Mats close to the skin, or skin that looks red, sore, broken or smells bad
• Hair loss, bald patches, scabs or lumps
• Excessive scratching, licking or over-grooming
• Fleas, flea dirt or other parasites
• A greasy, dull or unkempt coat that’s a change from normal
• Sudden weight loss or gain
• Pain when touched, hissing or aggression during grooming that’s new
• Eye or ear discharge
• Any sign your cat is unwell

Cats hide illness, so changes in grooming habits can be an early sign.

Common mistakes

• Brushing only the top layer of the coat
• Cutting mats with scissors
• Bathing too often
• Using dog products, or human or scented products, on cats
• Starting with long, stressful sessions
• Ignoring the belly, armpits and behind the ears
• Forcing a frightened cat
• Skipping grooming for older or overweight cats that can’t manage themselves
• Assuming a messy coat is just age

Final thoughts

Grooming a long-haired cat is easiest when it’s a short, regular habit that begins gently and ends with a reward. Brush down to the skin, check the trouble spots, keep nails trimmed, and leave serious mats to a professional. Watch for changes in your cat’s coat and behaviour, and ask your vet if something seems off. For more on keeping your cat healthy, see how our reviews work.

Frequently asked questions