New Puppy Checklist: What to Buy and Do in the First Week

Bringing a puppy home is exciting and a bit chaotic. In the space of a day you go from a quiet house to one with a tiny, sharp-toothed roommate who needs feeding, toileting, sleeping and supervising around the clock.

A little preparation makes the first week much calmer. This checklist covers what to buy, how to puppy-proof, what to do before and after you collect your puppy, and how to set up routines for feeding, toileting, sleep and training. Treat it as a starting point, and ask your breeder, rescue and vet about your puppy’s specific needs.

The short answer

Before your puppy arrives, buy the essentials (food, bowls, crate or pen, bed, collar and ID, leash, toys, grooming basics and cleaning supplies), puppy-proof the house, and book a vet visit for the first few days. In the first week, keep things calm and predictable: a consistent feeding and toilet routine, plenty of sleep, gentle handling and short, positive training sessions. Don’t expect perfection, and don’t rush socialisation or exercise.

Before your puppy comes home

Check the basics

• Ask what your puppy has been eating, how much, and when. Get a small supply of the same food, so you don’t change diets in the first days.
• Ask for records: vaccinations, worming, microchip details, and any health checks.
• Ask about the puppy’s routine: sleep, toileting, how it’s been handled.
• Make sure everyone in the household is ready, and agrees on the rules (is the sofa allowed? who walks and feeds?).
• Book a vet visit for the first few days. Our guide to how to choose a vet can help if you don’t have one yet.
• Think about costs and insurance before the puppy arrives. Policies vary widely in cover, so read them carefully.

Shopping list

Feeding

• Puppy food suited to your puppy’s expected adult size. Our guide to the best food for puppies explains what to look for.
• Two bowls, one for food and one for water. Stainless steel or ceramic are easy to clean.
• A kitchen scale for weighing portions. See our guide on how much to feed your dog.
• Small training treats, soft and easy to eat quickly
• An airtight container to keep food fresh

Sleeping and safe space

• A crate or playpen, big enough for your puppy to stand, turn and lie down, but not much bigger. Some come with dividers so you can adjust the size as your puppy grows.
• A comfortable bed or blanket. Choose something washable and chew-resistant, since puppies often chew bedding.
• Baby gates to close off rooms and stairs

Walking and identification

• A lightweight collar or harness that fits. Check it often, since puppies grow fast.
• An ID tag with your phone number
• A leash of 1.2 to 1.8 m (4 to 6 ft). Avoid retractable leashes for training. See our guide on how to stop a dog pulling on the leash.
• Microchip registration. Make sure your details are registered and up to date.

Toys and chews

• A variety of puppy-safe toys, including soft toys, rope toys and rubber chew toys
• Chew toys suitable for teething. Avoid anything hard enough to damage teeth, and anything small enough to swallow.
• A puzzle feeder or lick mat for mental stimulation

Toilet training and cleaning

• Enzymatic cleaner for accidents. Standard cleaners can leave a smell that draws a puppy back to the same spot.
• Poo bags
• Puppy pads, if you’ll use them. Our guide on how to potty train a puppy covers choosing a method.

Grooming

• A brush or comb suited to the coat
• Dog toothbrush and toothpaste. Start early. See our guide on how to brush a dog’s teeth.
• Nail clippers. See our guide on how to trim a dog’s nails.
• Dog shampoo, for when you need it. See our guide on how to bathe a dog.

Travel

• A secure carrier or a car harness or crate for safe journeys home. Don’t let a puppy roam loose in the car.
• Towels and a spare blanket, in case of car sickness

Nice to have, but not essential: a puppy playpen, a food storage mat, a snuffle mat, a puppy book or training class sign-up.

Puppy-proof your home

Puppies explore with their mouths. Get down to puppy height and look for hazards.

• Electrical cables. Hide them or use cord protectors.
• Toxic plants and foods. Check plants before bringing your puppy home, and keep food out of reach. See our guide to foods toxic to dogs.
• Medicines, cleaning products, antifreeze and chemicals. Store them out of reach, in closed cupboards.
• Small objects such as socks, children’s toys, hair ties, coins and batteries
• Bins. Use ones with secure lids.
• Shoes and furniture you don’t want chewed
• Stairs, balconies and open doors, with gates and supervision
• Garden hazards: gaps in fences, ponds, slug pellets, compost, fertilisers and toxic plants
• A secure, private space for the puppy to rest

Keep the number of your vet and an emergency vet somewhere easy to find, and save a poison helpline number in your phone.

Collection day

• Plan a calm, quiet day. Avoid collecting your puppy on the busiest day of the week, or just before visitors arrive.
• Bring a second person if you can, so one can drive and the other can comfort the puppy.
• Bring a blanket or toy from the breeder or rescue, if possible, so your puppy has a familiar smell.
• Take it slowly on the journey. Stop if the puppy seems unwell. Many puppies are car sick on the first trip.
• Give a toilet break before going in, and reward when your puppy goes in the chosen spot.

The first day and night

• Let your puppy explore at their own pace, and keep the first hours quiet.
• Show them the toilet spot, and take them out regularly.
• Offer food and water, at the usual time and amount.
• Don’t invite lots of visitors. Your puppy needs rest, and constant handling can be overwhelming, especially for children.
• Set up the sleeping area in a quiet place, with a crate or pen, bedding and a safe chew toy. Many owners keep it in their bedroom for the first few nights, so the puppy feels less alone and you can hear when they need the toilet.
• Expect some crying. It’s normal for the first nights. Stay calm, check that your puppy doesn’t need the toilet, and avoid making a fuss. If it continues or seems extreme, ask your vet or breeder for advice.
• Plan toilet trips at night. Young puppies can’t hold it all night, so expect to take your puppy out once or twice at first.

Feeding in the first week

• Keep your puppy on the same food they were eating, at first. If you want to switch, mix the new food in gradually over about a week.
• Feed measured portions at regular times. Many young puppies eat three to four small meals a day. Our puppy food guide has a general schedule, and your breeder or vet may suggest something different.
• Weigh the food and keep a record. Don’t let your puppy get overweight.
• Keep fresh water available.
• Count the treats, and keep them to around 10% of daily calories or less.
• Don’t give table scraps, cow’s milk or supplements unless your vet says so.
• Pick up uneaten food after 15 to 20 minutes.

If your puppy is a toy breed, ask about low blood sugar risks, and don’t leave them for long gaps between meals. See our guide to the best food for small dogs.

Toilet routine

Start from the first hour. The basics from our potty training guide:

• Take your puppy out often: after waking, eating, drinking and playing, and every one to two hours during the day.
• Use the same spot, and reward immediately when your puppy goes there.
• Supervise indoors, or use a crate or pen when you can’t watch.
• Never punish accidents. Clean up calmly and tighten the routine.

Sleep

Puppies sleep a lot, often 18 to 20 hours a day, in short bursts. Overtired puppies can become bitey and frantic.

• Give your puppy a quiet place to rest, away from heavy foot traffic.
• Teach them that the crate or bed is a good place, with treats and toys. Never use it as punishment.
• Set nap times. Let sleeping puppies sleep, and don’t wake them to play.
• Keep children’s play gentle and supervised, and teach them how to handle a puppy.

The first vet visit

Book a check-up in the first few days. Many breeders and rescues also recommend this as part of the sale or adoption.

Take with you:

• Vaccination, worming and microchip records
• Details of the food you’re feeding
• A list of questions
• A stool sample, if requested

Ask about:

• The vaccination schedule, and when your puppy can safely go to public places and meet other dogs
• Parasite prevention (fleas, ticks, worms)
• Microchipping, if it’s not done
• Neutering, and the timing for your puppy’s breed and size
• Feeding, weight checks and growth
• Dental care
• Insurance and what to budget for

Until your puppy is fully vaccinated, ask your vet which places are safe. In general, puppies are vulnerable to serious infectious diseases, so avoid areas where unvaccinated dogs may have been until your vet says it’s okay.

Socialisation

The early weeks are a key window for learning that the world is safe. But socialisation doesn’t mean overwhelming your puppy.

• Introduce new things gradually and positively: different surfaces, sounds, people, and (once your vet says it’s safe) other dogs.
• Use treats to build good associations.
• Let your puppy go at their own pace, and stop if they seem scared.
• Carry your puppy in safe outdoor spaces before vaccinations are complete, to experience sights and sounds without touching the ground, if your vet agrees.
• Consider a well-run puppy class that uses reward-based methods, and ask your vet when it’s safe to attend.

Training basics for the first week

Keep sessions short (a few minutes) and positive.

• Name. Say your puppy’s name, and reward when they look at you.
• Toilet training. The most important skill at first.
• Crate or bed introduction.
• Handling. Gently touch paws, ears, mouth and body, with treats, to prepare for grooming and vet visits.
• Biting and mouthing. Puppies bite. Redirect to a toy, stay calm, and avoid rough play with hands. If your puppy seems to bite out of overtiredness, offer a nap.
• Leash and collar. Let your puppy wear them for short periods indoors with treats before you walk outside.
• Sit and come. Short, easy tricks help you build communication.

Use reward-based training and avoid punishment. If you hit problems you can’t solve, ask a qualified positive-reinforcement trainer.

Exercise

Puppies need exercise, but not too much, because their joints and bones are still developing. Short walks, gentle play and exploration are better than long runs. A common guideline is five minutes of formal walking per month of age, twice a day, but it’s only a rough guide and varies by breed and size, so ask your vet. Avoid forced exercise, jumping from heights, and long stretches of hard-surface running.

Daily routine example

Every puppy is different, but a simple rhythm helps:

Time	Activity
Wake	Toilet, then breakfast
Soon after	Toilet, short play
Mid-morning	Nap in crate or pen
Wake	Toilet, short training or play
Midday	Lunch, toilet
Afternoon	Nap, toilet, play
Evening	Dinner, toilet, quiet time
Before bed	Toilet
Overnight	Toilet trip if needed

Adjust to your puppy’s age and your household.

What it costs

Puppies cost more than the purchase or adoption fee. Plan for:

• Initial supplies, such as the items above
• Vet care: vaccinations, microchipping, parasite prevention, neutering and check-ups
• Food, which grows as your puppy does. Compare on cost per day. See our guide to the real cost of feeding a dog.
• Insurance or an emergency fund
• Training classes
• Grooming
• Boarding or dog-walking for when you’re away

Prices vary a lot by region, breed and size, so work out your own budget rather than relying on a general figure.

Common first-week problems

My puppy cries all night.
It’s normal for a few nights. Keep the crate close, take them out for the toilet, and don’t make it exciting. If it continues or is extreme, ask your vet or a trainer.

My puppy has diarrhoea or has stopped eating.
Stress and a change of environment can cause an upset stomach, but puppies can dehydrate quickly. Contact your vet, particularly if it persists, there’s blood, your puppy is lethargic, or is a toy breed.

My puppy bites everything.
Normal teething and play. Redirect to toys, stay calm, and make sure your puppy is getting enough sleep.

My puppy won’t use the toilet outside.
Stay out longer, keep it boring, reward generously, and keep supervising indoors. See our potty training guide.

My puppy seems scared.
Give them time and space, avoid forcing interaction, and let them approach at their own pace.

Mistakes to avoid

• Overwhelming the puppy with visitors on day one
• Skipping the vet visit
• Changing food suddenly
• Overfeeding, or too many treats
• Taking an unvaccinated puppy to public places before the vet says it’s safe
• Punishing accidents or crying
• Leaving the puppy alone for long periods
• Over-exercising
• Not puppy-proofing
• Letting children handle the puppy unsupervised

When to call your vet

Contact your vet straight away if your puppy:

• Vomits repeatedly, has bloody or persistent diarrhoea, or stops eating
• Is very lethargic, weak, wobbly or collapses (especially toy breeds, which can have low blood sugar)
• Has trouble breathing, coughing or a lot of nasal discharge
• Has a swollen, painful belly
• May have eaten something toxic or a foreign object
• Has seizures
• Is injured

Young puppies can become seriously ill in a matter of hours, so don’t wait if you’re worried.

Final thoughts

The first week sets the tone, but it doesn’t have to be perfect. Get the essentials in place, puppy-proof the house, keep routines simple and calm, book the vet visit, and enjoy the early days. Ask questions of your breeder, rescue and vet, and be patient with yourself and your puppy. For help choosing a complete and balanced food, see how our reviews work.

Frequently asked questions

What do I need before bringing a puppy home?
Puppy food, bowls, a crate or pen, bedding, a collar or harness with ID, a leash, toys, grooming basics, enzymatic cleaner and a secure way to travel. Puppy-proof the house, and book a vet visit.

What should I do on my puppy’s first night?
Keep it calm. Take them out for the toilet before bed, set up a comfortable crate or pen in a quiet spot (many owners keep it close at first), and expect a toilet trip or two overnight.

How often should I feed a new puppy?
Often three to four small meals a day for young puppies. Ask your breeder or vet what suits your puppy, and keep to the same food at first.

When can my puppy go outside?
It depends on their vaccinations. Ask your vet when it’s safe to go to public places and meet other dogs. Your own garden, if secure and clean, is often fine for toilet training sooner, but ask your vet.

How long do puppies sleep?
Often 18 to 20 hours a day for young puppies, in short bursts. Overtired puppies can be bitey and hyperactive.

When should I start training my puppy?
From the first day, with short, positive sessions. Focus on toilet training, handling, crate comfort and simple cues.

How much exercise does a puppy need?
Less than you might think, because bones and joints are still developing. Short walks and play are better than long runs. Ask your vet for guidance for your breed.

Should I crate train my puppy?
It can be a useful tool for toilet training and safe rest, if introduced positively and not overused. Never use it as punishment.

When should I take my puppy to the vet?
Within the first few days of bringing them home, and sooner if they seem unwell.