How to Choose Cat Litter: Types, Pros and Cons

Walk down the litter aisle and you’ll find clay, crystals, pine, paper, corn, wheat and tofu, many of them promising “99% dust-free” or “total odour control.” It’s a lot of choice for something your cat will use several times a day.

The best litter is the one your cat will actually use, and that you can keep clean. This guide compares the main types, explains how to set up the box, and covers what to do if your cat stops using it.

The short answer

• Cats are the judge. A litter you love is useless if your cat avoids it.
• Most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litter.
• Clumping clay is the most common choice, and easy to scoop. Other types suit particular needs.
• Scoop daily, and wash the box regularly. Cleanliness matters as much as the litter type.
• Provide one box per cat, plus one extra, and put them in quiet, accessible places.
• If your cat suddenly stops using the box, see your vet. It’s often a health problem.

The main types of cat litter

Type	Pros	Cons
Clumping clay	Forms firm clumps that are easy to scoop, widely available, many cats like the texture	Heavy, can be dusty, not biodegradable, clay is strip-mined
Non-clumping clay	Often the cheapest, absorbent	Needs more frequent full changes, harder to keep clean, can smell sooner
Silica gel (crystal)	Very absorbent, low dust in many brands, good odour control, lasts longer	Higher price, some cats dislike the texture, can be hard to judge when it’s used up
Pine (pellets or crumbles)	Natural, pleasant smell, often biodegradable, usually low dust	Some cats dislike the pellets, can track, and scented versions may bother sensitive cats
Paper (recycled)	Soft, low dust, often recommended after surgery	Can be less effective at odour control, and some cats don’t like it
Corn, wheat, walnut, tofu and other plant-based	Often biodegradable, many clump, lower dust in some	Can attract insects or mould if damp, and may be a problem for cats or people with allergies to those ingredients

Brands within a type vary a lot, so use this as a starting point, and test with your cat.

What matters when choosing

Texture. Cats generally prefer a soft, sand-like texture, which feels like what they’d choose outdoors. If your cat dislikes a coarse or pellet litter, try a finer one.

Scent. Strong perfumes put many cats off, and they can irritate sensitive noses. Unscented litter is usually the safest choice. If you’re trying to cut down on smell, better cleaning and a good litter work better than fragrance.

Dust. Dusty litter can irritate cat and human airways, particularly for cats with asthma or respiratory problems. Choose a low-dust option, and pour gently. Ask your vet if your cat has breathing issues.

Clumping vs non-clumping. Clumping litter makes daily scooping easy. Some vets advise caution with clumping litter for very young kittens, who may eat it. Ask your vet if you have a kitten.

Odour control. Look for litters that absorb moisture well, but remember that cleaning matters most.

Tracking. Larger granules and pellets track less. A mat outside the box helps catch the rest.

Weight and convenience. A big clay bag is heavy to carry. Some lightweight litters are easier to handle, though they can be costlier.

Cost. Compare cost per month, not bag price. A pricier litter that clumps tightly and lasts longer may cost about the same as a cheap one that needs frequent changes. To compare, divide the price by how many weeks one bag lasts in your home.

Environment. Clay is mined, and most litters end up in landfill. Plant-based and paper litters are often more sustainable, but check whether they work for your cat. Don’t flush cat litter, even if it says “flushable,” because cat waste can carry parasites that can harm waterways and wildlife, and it can block pipes. Bag it and bin it.

Choosing the box

• Size. The box should be about one and a half times the length of your cat, from nose to base of the tail, so your cat can turn around and dig. Many store-bought boxes are too small, particularly for large breeds. A large storage tub can make a roomy alternative.
• Open vs covered. Many cats prefer open boxes, which feel less cramped and let them see around. Covered boxes control smell and scatter, but can trap odours inside, which cats find unpleasant, and may feel unsafe if another cat can ambush them. If you use a hood, watch whether your cat uses the box less.
• Height of the sides. Kittens, seniors and cats with arthritis need a low entry. High sides help with diggers and scatterers.
• Liners. Some cats dislike them because claws catch. Try without if your cat seems unhappy.
• Self-cleaning boxes. Convenient, but some cats are scared of the noise and movement. Introduce slowly, and keep a standard box available.

How many boxes, and where to put them

A common guideline is one box per cat, plus one extra. So two cats should have three boxes. They should be in different places, not lined up together, since cats may see a row of boxes as one big box.

Choose spots that are:

• Quiet and easy to reach, away from noisy appliances, busy doorways and cat food bowls
• Private, but not trapped, so your cat can see anyone coming
• On every floor of a multi-storey home
• Accessible for older or arthritic cats

For apartments, plan the layout carefully. Our guide to the best cat breeds for apartments covers more on small spaces.

How much litter, and how often to clean

• Depth. Many cats like around 5 to 7 cm (2 to 3 inches) of litter, so they can dig and bury. Some prefer less, so watch your cat.
• Scoop at least once daily. Remove clumps and waste. Cats can refuse a dirty box.
• Top up as you scoop to keep the depth steady.
• Empty and wash the box regularly, often every one to four weeks depending on the litter type and number of cats. Use warm water and mild, unscented soap. Avoid strong-smelling cleaners, ammonia and bleach mixtures, which can put cats off or be harmful.
• Replace old plastic boxes that have become scratched, since scratches can trap odours.

Switching litter

Don’t change litter suddenly. Cats are creatures of habit, and a switch can lead to accidents.

1. Mix a small amount of the new litter into the old, such as 25% new.
2. Gradually increase the proportion over one to two weeks.
3. Offer the new litter in a second box next to the old one, to let your cat choose.
4. Go back if your cat refuses to use it.

Litter box safety and hygiene for people

• Wash your hands after scooping.
• Pregnant people and anyone with a weakened immune system should ask their doctor about scooping. Cat waste can carry Toxoplasma, which can be harmful during pregnancy. Having someone else scoop, or wearing gloves and washing hands thoroughly, are commonly recommended precautions.
• Keep litter away from children and other pets. Dogs often eat cat waste, which can make them sick.
• Store litter in a dry place, since damp litter can grow mould.

When your cat won’t use the litter box

This is among the most common reasons cats are given up, and it’s usually fixable. First rule out a medical cause, since it’s often the reason.

See your vet if your cat:

• Suddenly stops using the box, or has accidents
• Strains, cries or spends a long time in the box, with little or no urine
• Passes blood in urine or stool
• Urinates frequently, in small amounts
• Has diarrhoea or constipation

A male cat straining to urinate with little or nothing coming out is an emergency. A blocked urinary tract can be fatal within a day or two. Go to an emergency vet immediately.

If your vet finds no medical problem, consider:

• The litter: a recent change, a strong scent, or a texture your cat dislikes
• The box: too small, too dirty, hooded, or in a busy or frightening place
• The number of boxes: too few for your cats
• Stress: a new pet, house move, visitors, or changes in routine
• Conflict between cats: one blocking access to the box
• Age: a box that’s hard for an older cat to step into

Don’t punish your cat. It makes the problem worse. Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner, not an ammonia-based one, which can smell like urine. If problems persist, ask your vet or a qualified cat behaviourist.

Litter and health: what to watch

Your cat’s litter box is a useful window into their health. Notice:

• How much your cat urinates, and whether it changes
• Stool changes, such as diarrhoea, constipation or blood
• Straining or crying
• Changes in how often your cat uses the box

Diet plays a part in what’s in the box, and so does hydration. Our guide to wet vs dry cat food covers moisture and urinary health, and you can browse our pages on dry food and fresh food. Don’t change your cat’s diet to fix a litter problem without talking to your vet, and see our guide to reading a pet food label if you do switch.

Mistakes to avoid

• Using strongly scented litter or cleaners
• Letting the box get dirty
• Using a box that’s too small
• Putting the box next to food and water, or in a noisy spot
• Having too few boxes
• Changing litter suddenly
• Flushing cat litter
• Punishing accidents
• Ignoring litter box changes, which can be an early sign of illness

Final thoughts

The best cat litter is the one your cat will use consistently. Start with an unscented, fine-grained litter, use a roomy box in a quiet spot, scoop daily, and provide enough boxes. If your cat’s habits change, don’t assume it’s bad behaviour. Check with your vet first. For more on caring for your cat, see how our reviews work.

Frequently asked questions

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